Friday, October 19, 2007

Fall Trip '07: Death Valley, California

I had been delayed several times in the past few days by my accident with the deer, by a rough 4WD road, and by my flat tire, so now I had to make up time by making the several hundred mile drive from Southeastern Utah to the Death Valley area. Having left Devil's Garden the day before, I entered the park featuring sites such as "The Devil's golf Course" and noticed that AC/DC's "Highway to Hell" was playing on the radio:

Living easy, living free
Season ticket on a one-way ride
Asking nothing, leave me be
Taking everything in my stride
Dont need reason, dont need rhyme
Aint nothing I would rather do
Going down, party time
My friends are gonna be there too

I arrived at Death Valley's sand dunes just as the sun was clearing the horizon. I hiked out into the dunes and found a lot of good dune and sand pattern shots.
I also found a lot of other photographers! At times it seemed as if there was a photographer standing on every third dune.

Wednesday, October 17, 2007

Fall Trip '07: Hole In The Rock Road - Devil's Garden

Near Escalante, Utah:



Fall Trip '07: Hole In The Rock Road - Harris Wash

I made the error of assuming that the access to Zebra Slot Canyon via Harris Wash was from the Harris Wash road and trailhead. Wrong! Six hours of continuous hiking in the sand and streambed later, my wet, cold and well-sanded feet returned me to where I started and I determined that the two best access routes were actually miles upstream.


I rushed to reach Coyote Wash to get to two other slot canyons, but after 30 miles of washboard surface I had a tire blowout as I was arriving, so I my explorations were over for the day.

Monday, October 15, 2007

Fall Trip '07: Little Egypt to Capitol Reef National Park

I decided to do the long drive from Cedar Mesa to Capitol Reef National Park Sunday night, but after hitting a deer I was too exhausted to make it the whole way. I stayed in a rest area near the Hite Crossing Marina on the upper reaches of Lake Powell, or where Lake Powell would be if we weren't in a drought (or if the Colorado River's water wasn't overallocated).

That gave me the opportunity to drive through the gorgeous White Canyon as the sun rose. I was also able to stop at Little Egypt just after sunrise, sort of a mini Goblin Valley on BLM land.

This was my second visit to Capitol Reef National Park, and I headed immediately to the Fremont River crossing that would take me to the 4WD road that leads to the Bentonite Hills. For the 100 foot journey down the river to the road on the other side, the river's water was not up to the bottom of my doors like it was last year, and a grader was actively working the ramp on the other side. The driver was too busy grading to see me, so after several minutes I waited until he drove all the way out into the streambed, then I darted out and behind him, waving as I charged up his carefully groomed ramp. The road on the other side was missing most of the loose, axle-deep sand that almost stopped me last year. It doesn't get any easier than this.

At the end of the day I did the tourist drive into the main canyon by the visitor center. At the end of the road I decided to take a "shortcut" on the map, marked like the well-graded roads that I had been driving all day. The "road" turned out to be South Draw Road, a serious 4WD trail, so it took me 4.5 hours to go the next 25-30 miles. At one point I was getting out about every 30-40 feet to scout the obstacles ahead. I was lucky to get through without a backup vehicle to pull me out of gullies or off of rocks. Fortunately I hadn't expected the condition of the road, so I was short on water and that encouraged me to press on through rather than drag it out into the next morning.

I pulled it off, so the memory is of a great challenge successfully overcome, rather than a poor decision that turned into a survival story. A couple of times I was a few tire slips away from having it turn out differently. Lesson learned: next time I'll carry more water, hopefully be driving something better equipped for off-road trails then a stock Ford Explorer with aging tires, and I'll do the trip in daylight so I can capture photos of the most exciting parts!

Again I had some adventures that slowed my progress, but that's the charm of adventurous travel! I rolled into a viewpoint at around 9000 feet in elevation a little bit after midnight, and looked forward to a sunrise view the next day.

Update: I looked up South Draw Road on the Internet, and the one review of it that I found says, "Best advice: TURN AROUND at the park boundary"!

Sunday, October 14, 2007

Fall Trip '07: Monument Valley to Cedar Mesa, Utah

On this trip I arrived at Monument Valley in time for sunrise. Some of the best shots I've seen of Monument Valley were taken at sunset, or with interesting weather such as lightning.

This ruin is in Road Canyon in the Cedar Mesa area adminstered by the BLM in Southern Utah. Commonly referred to as Fallen Roof Ruin, it is popular among photographers for its picturesque pattern on the ceiling. Many artifacts such as pottery shards seem to have been looted by prior visitors, but there are still 700 year old pieces of corn in the granary to the right. Corn at that time was about 4" long!

Saturday, October 13, 2007

Fall Trip '07: Towards Monument Valley


Sometimes when you see a big rain cloud in the distance near sunset, it pays to take the chance on driving towards it, hoping there's something to shoot a picture of once you get there. It was desolate and bone dry in this part of New Mexico; the horse was a lucky break.

I have a number of shots from this sunset. I can't wait to sort through them and edit the best ones.

Friday, October 12, 2007

Fall Trip '07: Durango, Colorado

It's tough to drive, shoot pictures, edit them, upload, write, and drive, so please bear with me as I provide mainly photo updates while I'm on my trip!

Saturday, October 06, 2007

Fall Trip '07: Late Start... Through Nevada to Utah

Day 1: I’m four days late getting out of the house due to a legal response that took longer than expected and a new form arriving that required some research. I haven’t heard back from my divorce attorney for a couple of days but she knows I’m packing to go, so I decide to get on the road. By the time I have everything ready and loaded in the truck it’s 6pm.

As I enter the freeway I noticed it is damp on the edges. Apparently a rain shower has moved through. The weather forecast for the next few days isn’t great. Whether I head northeast to Yellowstone and Grand Teton or southeast towards Colorado, the next few days may include rain and snow showers, and nighttime temperatures as low as the low 20s. I’m surprised to see as I climb the western slope of the Sierras that there are patches of snow as low as 4000 feet. As I continue the snow blankets the ground, then gets deeper, then it starts to snow. Soon I’m driving through a blizzard with 4-5 inches of snow on the sides of the road! By Donner Summit it’s dark and traffic has slowed to a crawl due to black ice on the road, and everyone’s going slow down the steep descent towards the Tahoe Basin. On the other side of the freeway a tow truck has about 75 feet of cable out and is hauling an SUV out of the snowy thirty foot deep trench between the eastbound and westbound lanes.

I decided that I’d better stop a few miles ahead in Truckee and rethink my plans. My mother is off traveling, but I stop by her place to pick up my snow chains and a couple of logs. It has stopped snowing, and some stars a visible above. I decide that the storm is local and that I want to get on the road so I can get somewhere by the following night.

I drive as far as I can into Nevada before I get tired. The sate seems endless. Some of the hills alongside the road have dusting of snow on them, but the road is clear so I make decent progress. When even the quirky radio stations can’t hold my interest any more, I pull over at a rest stop and stretch out in my down sleeping bag in the back. I’m about halfway across Nevada. Depending upon whether I turn north or south at Salt lake City, I should be able to make it To Wyoming or Southern Utah by the following night.

Day 2: I wake up before dawn, and see the sun’s light coming on the eastern horizon. Instinctively I look around to see if there’s anything to take a picture of. The surrounding hills have a blanket of snow on them, and there are enough clouds that the sunrise will be interesting if enough sun can get through. I’m awake, the sun’s coming… I might as well get to work.

I turn on the car to get the heater going, slip into some clothes, and hop into the front seat. There aren’t a lot of vehicles on the road this early, so I simply stop on the shoulder as I see good light and interesting subjects. At one point the sight of a tree seems noteworthy.

By the time I reach the Utah border there are more cars on the road, and the Bonneville Salt Flats are on the other side of the westbound lanes of the freeway, so I pass through without a shot. Someone has some trucks and trailers out on the salt flats, and they have marked a straight track across the flat surface. Perhaps they’re in pursuit of a speed record? At Salt Lake I decide that Colorado is a safer destination, since there are warmer, lower elevations nearby in New Mexico and Arizona if the cold and snow is too intense. If the storms have knocked the colorful leaves off the aspen in Colorado, I can explore slot canyons in Southern Utah instead.

I stop a short distance south of Salt Lake City in the town of Provo for supplies, and I notice that people are traveling in packs… 4… 5… 6… and it’s mostly housewives with their children. Toto, I don’t think we’re in Kansas anymore!

Checking the map, Arches National Park in Moab, Utah not far from the Colorado border, seems like a good target for sunset. It looks like I can arrive about an hour before sunset, which will give me time to get into the park and get set up somewhere.

Unfortunately the sun is setting just as I arrive; I had failed to account for the time zone change and the nearly 1000 miles that I had traveled. It’s a huge loss; the broken clouds from the recent storms were dark red and magenta tones, over a landscape of red sandstone, with snow-tipped peaks in the distance. I drive into the park anyway, and snap a couple of shots in the fading light, plus a couple of star trail photos. Now that I’m here, I’ll come back for the entire next day to get some decent shots.

Thursday, October 04, 2007

Fall Colors: Selecting a Destination

Here I am packing for my next photography trip. My ex scheduled a court date for exactly the middle of my planned trip. What a coincidence.

I'm examining the Forest Service's Rocky Mountain Region 2007 Fall Color Report to see where I should go with the 2 weeks I'll now have instead of the 4-6 I was counting on:

NEARLY ALL THE FORESTS WHO SENT IN A REPORT THIS WEEK AGREE THE FALL COLORS WILL BE REACHING THEIR PEAK COLOR BETWEEN THIS WEEKEND, SEPTEMBER 29th & 30th, AND THE FOLLOWING WEEKEND, OCTOBER 6th & 7th.

With favorable weather conditions, the color should continue to intensify during the next 2 - 3 weeks. With even a little more luck from the weather, there could be good color into the last week of October in some areas.


I'd better get moving!

As I was dropping off some legal documents to keep me out of hot water while I'm on the road, The Doors were playing, and Jim Morrison seemed to be urging me out the door.

Ah keep your eyes on the road,
Your hands upon the wheel.
Keep your eyes on the road
Your hands upon the wheel.
Yeah, were going to the roadhouse,
Gonna have a real good-time.

...
The futures uncertain
And the end is always near.

Let it roll, baby, roll.
Let it roll, baby, roll.
Let it roll, baby, roll.
Let it roll, all night long.